apothecary console table woodworking plans
3 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×2 @ 4 feet long
1 – 1×10 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×12 @ 6 feet long
1 – 1×12 @ 4 feet long
1 – 1/2 sheet 1/4″ plywood (grab a full sheet if you use 1/4″ plywood for the door faces)
1 – 1/2 sheet of 1/2″ thick hardwood plywood (look in hobby wood section of Lowes)
12 feet of 1×6 boards, 1/4″ thick stock (look in hobby section of Lowes, or you could use 1/4″ plywood from the back cut into 5 1/2″ widths)
20 Knobs or handles
2 sets Euro Style inset hinges (see last step)
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
120 grit sandpaper
countersink drill bit
2 – 1×12 @ 35 1/4″ (Sides)
2 – 1×12 @ 35 1/2″ (Top/Bottom)
1 – 1×12 @ 32 1/4″ (Center)
4 – 1×10 @ 17 3/8″ (Shelves)
1 – 1×2 @ 35 1/2″ (Footer)
5 – 1×3 @ 35 1/2″ (Decorative Top)
1 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 35 1/4″ x 37″ (Back)
2 – 1/2″ Plywood @ 32″ x 17 1/8″
20 – 1/4″ thick, 5 1/2″ wide hobby stock boards @ 8 1/8″ OR 20 pieces of 1/4″ plywood (leftover from back) @ 5 1/2″ x 8 1/8″
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.
I’ve included pocket holes for Kreg Jig users. But certainly, you can (and I did for many years) build with glue and screws or a finish nailer. You will want to use 2″ fasteners and check for square after each step. Build the box as shown above.
Once your box is built, add shelves as shown above. In the diagram, shelves are spaced 10″ apart. You can space any distance apart to suit your needs. I recommend making one shelf set fixed, but you could use shelf pins to make one shelf adjustable.
Now add the 1×2 footer as shown above.
Attach back with nails and glue, making sure the box is square, and you nail into fixed shelves.
Start at the back and work your way forward, nailing down the 1x3s. If you are using a different color for the top, you may wish to paint or stain cabinet and top separately, then attach afterwards. You could nail from the underside to hide blemishes. Use glue.
Carefully cut the 1/2″ plywood doors and fit to the openings. There should be approximately a 1/8″ gap on all sides, and the doors sit inset. Once satisfied, layout the faces and glue down. Clamp and let dry. If you have 5/8″ nails, tack down as well – but remember, all those knobs aren’t letting those faces go anywhere.
The best hinges to use with these cabinet doors (and easiest to install) are pictured above.
I find them cheaper at Lowes, but also available at the Home Depot. Follow the instructions that come with the hinges.
Another note, before you put the back on, you could position the door (remember it sets 3/4″ inset totally, to include the false fronts) in the opening and attach hinges. Mark the location of the hinges when you are happy that there is a even gap around all sides of the door, and uninstall the hinges. That way, when you go to install the door, you have the location marked out.
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.