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apothecary console woodworking plans

Added/Modified on April 22, 2016
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Shopping List:

2 – Sheets of 3/4″ MDF or Plywood, cut into 15 1/2″ wide strips, 8′ Long
1 – 1/4″ Plywood or Lauan or MDF (for the back)
1 – 12′ 1×6 AND 1- 8′ 1×6 Boards
2 – 1×2 Boards
2″ Screws
1 1/4″ Screws
wood glue
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush

Tools:

measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
Kreg Jig™
drill
circular saw
nailer
sander

Cut List:

3 – 1×16 @ 61 1/2″ (Shelves)
2 – 1×16 @ 16 1/4″ (Bottom Dividers)
2 – 1×16 @ 14 3/4″ (Drawer Dividers)
2 – 1×16 @ 7″ (Top Dividers)
2- 1×16 @ 27″ (Sides)
1 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 63 x 27″ (Back)
3 – 1×6 @ 65″ (Top)
1 – 1×2 @ 61 1/2″ (Inset front footer)
2 – 1×2 @ 15 1/2″ (Side Footer)
1 – 1×2 @ 64 1/2″ (Front Footer)

General Instructions

Remember, you can click on images to see a larger view. Work on a clean level surface. Take a square of your project after each step. Use good straight boards. Mark out joints on both sides before fastening. If you are working with MDF, use drywall screws to avoid splitting the MDF and be sure to countersink and predrill the entire length of the screw. Avoid fastening within 1″ of the ends of a board if you are using MDF to prevent splitting. Use glue unless otherwise directed. Use necessary safety precautions and equipment. The box of this cabinet is built with 1x16s (read here on how to get a 1×16). You can also use 1 1×12 width or even a 1×10 width (for a console size, especially if you are using this as a flat panel media console and space is at a premium).

Step 1

Box Partitions
Begin by marking out all the joints on both sides of the boards as shown above. Don’t forget that the boards are 3/4″ thick. Then beginning on the bottom partition (yellow) attach the green partition. Now attach the yellow boards to the purple. Finally, attach the blue boards to the purple. Use 2″ screws and glue. Remember, you can click on images to see a full size view.

Step 2

Finish the Box
Begin by marking joints on both sides of the boards. Then attach with 2″ screws and glue the top to the top partitions. Then attach the sides to all of the shelves and the top, ash shown above.

Step 3

Back
Cut your 1/4″ plywood as shown above. Then use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to attach the back to the box. Don’t forget to fasten to all of the partitions and shelves. Make sure your project is nice and square before attaching the back. The measurements shown here are slightly different from the cut list because I choose to make the cabinet slightly taller for drawer reasons, but either measurement would work just fine.

Step 4

Top
Using 1 1/4″ screws and glue, fasten the top boards to the top. Notice that there is a 1″ overhang on the front and the sides, but the back rests flush with the back edge of the sides.

Step 5

Footer
Begin the footer by attaching the green 1×2 above inset and flush with the face of the cabinet. Use 2″ screws or nails and glue, fastening from both the sides and the bottom shelf. Then fasten the side footer, shown in blue, to the sides as shown above.

Step 6

Footer, Front
Using 1 1/4″ Screws or nails and glue, fasten the front footer to the pieces from step 5. Keep outside edges flush.

SECTION 2 – THE DRAWERS

Shopping List:

2 – 1×8 Boards, 10′ Long
2″ Screws
Scrap 1×16 and 1/4″ plywood from the base cabinet
16 Knobs
4 Total Euro Style Hinges, Full Overlay or Inset (see below)

Tools:

measuring tape
square
pencil
hammer
safety glasses
hearing protection
circular saw
nailer
sander

Cut List:

Cut List: For 4 Drawers
4 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 13″ x14″ (Drawer bottoms, use scrap 1×16 pieces)
4 – 1×8 @ 13″ (Drawer Backs)
8 – 1×8 @ 14 3/4″ (Drawer Sides)
4 – 1×8 @ 14 1/2″ (Drawer Fronts
16 – 1/4″ plywood @ 7″ x 7 3/4″ (False Faces)

Cut List: For Both Drawers (Drawers are not the same!)
1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 16″ x15 1/2″ (Larger Door, use scrap 1×16 pieces)
1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 16″ x14 5/8″ (Smaller Door, use scrap 1×16 pieces)
8 – 1/4″ plywood @ 7″ x 7 3/4″ (False Faces, use scraps from the back)

Step 7

Drawer Backs
Begin by fastening the drawer back to the drawer bottom using 2″ screws and glue. A trick I do to make my drawers slide better without having to buy hardware is rest the bottom (but not the back and sides and front) on a scrap piece of 1/4″ plywood when fastening the backs, sides and front. This raises the bottom 1/4″ and that way your bottom doesn’t drag when the door is opened and closed. After you finish you piece, you can rub vasoline on the sides and your drawers should glide smoothly on the side edges.

Step 8

Drawer Sides
Just like you added the back, now add the sides. Make sure you also fasten to the back piece.

Step 9

Drawer Fronts
Now add the front, making use the drawer is square and the front lines up with all outside edges. Fasten with 2″ screws and glue to the sides and bottom.

Step 10

False Faces
Here is what I would do because I’m a slight perfectionist. I would put all of your drawers into the drawer boxes without the false faces and center the drawers on the opening, with approximately an 1/8″ all the way around (a 1/4″ on the top). Then I would position the false faces over the drawers so that the false faces just covers this gap. Leave a 3/4″ space between the false faces. Glue and if you have your nailer handy, tack a few nails into the corners of the false faces. Clamp and let dry.

Step 11

Knobs
The above diagram is shown to help you determine the centers of the false faces for adding your knobs.

Step 12

Doors
Cut you doors as shown above. The doors are not the same. Fit in the opening and attach with inset euro style full overlay hinges.

Step 13

My favorite are these from Lowes

Step 14

False Faces
As you did with the false faces from the drawers, attach the false faces to the doors, concealing the gap around the doors.

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