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changing table woodworking plans

Added/Modified on November 30, 2016
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1/2 Sheet of 3/4” plywood or MDF
2 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
3 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×6 @ 10 feet long
1 – 1×4 @ 12 feet long
1/4” plywood piece at least 16” x 35”
2 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long (for topper)
1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Tools:

measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
Kreg Jig™
drill
circular saw
compound miter saw
nailer
sander

Cut List:

4 – 2×2 @ 32”
4 – 1×2 @ 14-1/2”
4 – 1×2 @ 38”
2 – 3/4” plywood @ 14-1/2” x 38”
2 – 1×6 @ 14-1/2”
1 – 1×6 @ 38”
1 – 3/4” plywood @ 17-1/2” x 41”
1 – 1×2 @ 38”
3 – 1×2 @ 4-3/4”

DRAWERS

4 – 1×4 @ 15-1/2” (sides)
4 – 1×4 @ 15-3/8” (front/back)
2 – 1/4” plywood @ 15-1/2” x 16-7/8” (bottom)
2 – 3/4” plywood or 1×6 @ 4-1/2” x 17-5/8” (front)

TOPPER
2 – 1×3 @ 41”
3 – 1×3 @ 16”

General Instructions:

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.

Step 1

Drill (2) 3/4” pocket holes on each end of the 1×2 @ 14-1/2” long. Attach to the 2×2 legs with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, flush to inside, keeping pocket holes hidden on insides.

NOTE: Upper shelf can be placed at any height. In this plan, the upper shelf is placed to allow 12” height on lower shelf.

Step 2

Drill 2 – 3/4” pocket holes on each end of the 1×2 @ 38” long and attach with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws to the 2×2 legs, at the same height as the side 1x2s. Keep 1x2s flush to inside of the legs.

Step 3

Drill 3/4” pocket holes around all four edges of the two shelves (14-1/2” x 38”), spacing pocket holes every 6-8 inches. Attach inset to the 1×2 frames with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Attach the 1×6 side and back aprons with 3/4” pocket holes and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Also drill 3/4” pocket holes on the insides of the aprons facing upward to attach the top in later steps.

*Note: the backboard should be flush to the outside of the legs.

Step 5

Attach top through predrilled pocket holes from previous step with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Attach the shorter 1×2 boards to inside of drawer area. Then attach bottom 1×2 with glue and finish

nails – also use pocket holes to attach to legs.

Step 7

Trim out around top with molding or 1x1s to finish plywood edges. For a more finished look, miter corners.

Step 8

Build drawers to fit openings and drawer slides. Install drawers in table with drawer slides, insetting 3/4” to allow for the drawer face.

Step 9

Attach drawer face to drawers with 1-1/4” finish nails and glue, then attach from inside with 1-1/4”

screws. NOTE: It may be easier to attach handles or knobs before attaching the drawer faces.

Step 10

Build topper with either finish nails and glue or pocket holes. Bottom is not necessary. Can be attached with a bracket on back side to keep in place.

*Note: We adjusted the 32” measurement to 30” to fit our changing pad and wipe container better.

Finishing Instructions

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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