clubhouse bed woodworking plans

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Shopping List:

2 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
4 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
8 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
5 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
15 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long
1 ¼ and 2 ½ PH screws
1 1/4 finish nails
Wood glue
3” screws or bolts for assembly
2” screws for slats
Slats (7 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long)

NOTE: We recommend the following changes to the shopping list because our 1×6 board ran a little wide on the front and we wanted gaps between the wood slats.

– add 2 – 1×5 @ 8′
– decrease 1×6 quantity to 14

1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
wood glue
wood filler

Cut List

NOTE: This plan assumes your 1×6 boards are less than 5 1/2″ wide.

SIDE WALLS (BUILD 2)
4 – 2×2 @ 36”
14 – 1×3 @ 25 ½”
4 – 2×4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 2×4 @ 17” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, NOT parallel)
2 – 1×4 @ 43 ½”

BACK WALL
2 – 2×4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1×6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1×5 (Jaime recommends using the 1x5s here instead of 1×6) @ 40 3/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1×6 @ 43 1/2” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1×6 @ 46 3/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1×6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1×6 @ 53 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1×6 @ 54 1/2” (top end cut to dogeared point 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1×4 @ 78”
2 – 1×4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1×2 @ 71”(slat rail ledge)
2 – 2×4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)

FRONT WALL
2 – 2×4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1×6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1×6 @ 40 3/8” (Jaime recommends swapping these out for the 1×5 boards) (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1×6 @ 13 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1×6 @ 17 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1×6 @ 17 5/8” (under windows)
2 – 1×6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1×6 @ 16” (doorway)
1 – 1×4 @ 78”
2 – 1×4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1×2 @ 13” (window trim – recommend cutting to fit)
1 – 1×2 @ 71” (slat rail ledge)
2 – 2×4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
– add 2 – 1×2 @ 14.5″ (lower window trim interior – add to inside of windows)

LADDER
2 – 1×6 @ 38” (both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends are parallel)
3 – 1×6 @ 14 ½”
1 – 1×4 @ 14 ½”

SLATS
Recommend cutting 1×3 @ 40 1/2” long

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.

Step 1

Build the walls with 3/4″ PHs and 1 1/4″ PH screws. Use scrap 1×3 to help with spacing. Fill upper holes with either PH plugs or wood filler.

Step 2

Now add the legs.

Step 3

And then add the cross supports. We used 2 1/2″ PH screws through 1 1/2″ PHs to attach.

Step 4

And the trim to the base.

NOTE: Attach 34” up NOT 34 ¼”

Step 5

Build your back wall. I suggest leaving gaps between the wood boards to get that “clubhousey” look but you could also PH them together. Up to you! Either way, I’d recommend laying out all the boards first and going from there.

NOTE: as in plans 13 slats @ 5 1/2″ = 78.5″ which is 1/2″ too much width, change out 40 3/8″ slats to 1×5 which allows for 1/8″ spacing between slats (these changes have been made in the cut and shopping list above)
– PH screws first slat (37 1/4″) to legs, then use 1×4 @78″ trim piece and screw slats to trim from inside, then same at top angled trim pieces

Step 6

Attach top and bottom trim.

Step 7

This is for the slat system. You can use a 2×2 here too.

Step 8

And the cross supports.

Step 9

Lay out your front wall as you did the back wall.

Step 10

add the trim.

Step 11

I’d cut the window trim a little long here.

NOTE:
screw on front trim from inside then screw added interior window trim from inside from strength (my kids will definitely lean on this sill and without any side support in the slats I needed to add the extra longer interior trim piece).
– I also added a short 1×2 @ 4″ piece across the top point on the interior to hold the joint where the angled trim pieces meet, not to mention it provides a sturdy hook for decor.

Step 12

And the bottom supports and cross supports.

Step 13

Now move the pieces into the room. For the large walls, try going in upside down, and getting one leg through at a time.

NOTE: I used 3/8″ lag bolts @ 3 1/2″ in 3 spots on each leg

Step 14

Add the slats or bunkie board or box spring.

Step 15

And then build your ladder and attach.

NOTE: gap between rungs is 8″, attached with 2 – 3/8″ carriage bolts @ 3″

Finishing Instructions

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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