cottage loft bed woodworking plans
Fits twin sized mattress
10 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
7 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
11 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long
11 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
Slats or Bunkie Board
2 inch screws
2 1/2 inch screws
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
120 grit sandpaper
countersink drill bit
50 – 1×2 @ 15″ (Rails)
1 – 2×2 @ 21″ (Ladder Side, Top)
10 – 1×6 @ 21″ (Ladder Side, Planks)
9 – 1×3 @ 71 1/4″ (Legs)
1 – 1×6 @ 15 3/4″ (Ladder Top)
4 – 1×3 @ 15 3/4″ (Ladder Rungs)
2 – 1×2 @ 21″ (Ladder Side Trim)
1 – 2×2 @ 37 1/2″ (Window Side Top)
5 – 1×6 @ 37 1/2″ (Window Side Planks)
4 – 1×6 @ 27 1/4″ (Window Side Vertical Planks)
6 – 1×4 @ 27 1/4″ (Window Trim)
1 – 1×3 @ 18 1/2″ (Window Side Top Trim)
1 – 1×4 @ 18 1/2″ (Window Side Bottom Trim, ends tapered in)
2 – 1×2 @ 37 1/2″ (Window Side Trim)
2 – 2×2 @ 75″ (Long Railing Tops)
4 – 1×3 @ 16 1/2″ (Long Railing Ends)
3 – 1×6 @ 80″ (Long Rail Bottoms/Bottom Support)
2 – 1×3 @ 43 3/4″ (Back Spacers)
2 – 1×3 @ 27 1/4″ (Front Window Spacers)
8 – 1×6 @ 28″ (Front Planks)
1 – 2×2 @ 24″ (Doorway top)
2 – 2×2 @ 47 3/4″ (Doorway Sides)
2 – 1×2 @ 40 3/8″ (Both ends cut at 20 degrees off square, ends parallel)
1 – 1×2 @ 78″ (Gable End Trim)
1 – 1/8″ Paneling to fit Gable end
2 – 1×3 @ 17 1/4″ (Front Window Top Trim)
2 – 1×4 @ 17 1/4″ (Front Window Bottom Trim, Ends Tapered)
2 – 1×2 @ 25 1/2″ (Front Wall Trim)
2 – 2×2 @ 75″ (Cleats)
Slats for the mattress or bunkie board
For a project of this size, it is always a good idea to cut as you go. It is also a good idea to grab a few extra boards in each size.
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.
This is for the ladder side. The top is a 2×2, and the bottom is a 1×6. Mark out all the rail spacings as shown above and predrill holes with a Kreg Jig™ set for 3/4″ stock. Fasten the rails to the top and bottom, keeping the back side flush.
Try placing a 3/4″ thick board under the rails to bring them up to flush with the 2×2 as you fasten. Little tricks like this can save you a ton of time.
With your ladder side rails done, attach the legs and the 1x6s with pocket holes as shown above. Remember that all boards on the back side are flush. Use glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Now it’s time to start constructing the ladder. Attach the ladder top trim and the remaining leg as shown above.
And now the ladder rungs.
Depending on the quality of your 1x6s, you may wish to add a pocket hole screw in the center of each 1×6, joining 1x6s to each other.
Finally, a little trim tacked on with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue will give the bed a finished look. When you do trim, it is always a good idea to measure and cut as you go for the tightest fit.
Set the ladder wall aside.
Now build the window side railing as shown above, in the same manner as the ladder side.
add the legs and the horizontal panel boards.
Now measure and cut the vertical panel boards as shown above. Fasten in place. From the leg, attach the panel board with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue.
Some window trim. Attach with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue.
You don’t have to do the trim in this manner – use your imagination and be creative! Attach with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue.
A little trim will finish up the window side of the bed.
You will need to build two of these, one for the front, and one for the back.
To both of these railings, attach legs as shown above.
To the back panel, attach a base support as shown above.
And now fill in the legs as shown above. Use 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue. This completes the back panel.
On the remaining panel attach boards with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue. Use pocket holes to attach the door trim in place as shown above.
Now add in the vertical panels as shown above. You may need to cut these to fit.
Use your Kreg Jig to build a triangular frame as shown above. Then tack 1/8″ beadboard paneling to the back with 3/4″ finish nails or brad nails and glue. Then attach the gable end piece to the front of the bed with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue as shown above.
Time for window trim. Same as the side window, use 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue.
This bed is easy to assemble in the room. Simply move all four panels into the room, and screw the walls together as shown above.
Attach cleats to the inside of the bed as shown above with 2″ screws and glue, every 6-8″.
Finally, lay slats across the cleats as recommended by your mattress, or use a bunkie board. If you use cleats, screw your cleats down with 2″ screws.
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.