daybed woodworking plans
Fits twin sized mattress. Measure your doorways – if you can’t fit 30″ through it, you will need to do some assembly in the room.
3 – 2×3 @ 8 feet long
7 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
6 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
Use either pocket hole screw or regular screws
2 inch screws
2 1/2 inch screws
3 inch screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
120 grit sandpaper
countersink drill bit
24 – 1×2 @ 12″ (Sides of Rectangles)
9 – 1×2 @ 5 1/2″ (Rectangle to Rectangle Joiners)
6 – 1×2 @ 4 1/4″ (End Joiners)
24 – 1×2 @ 6 1/2″ (Tops and Bottoms)
3 – 2×2 @ 75″ (Back Top and Cleats)
2 – 2×3 @ 75″ (Aprons)
4 – 2×2 @ 30″ (Legs)
2 – 2×2 @ 39″ (Arm Top)
2 – 2×3 @ 39″ (Arm Aprons)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.
You are probably wondering why in the H are we starting by building an H? Why not start by building the rectangles? Well, there’s good reason (unless you own a Kreg Jig, and then you can do whatever you want – or rectangle for the matter).
See what happens is you won’t have room to fit your drill in to screw additional pieces on. Then you are just stuck.
So build 9 Hs. Just like this one.
If you have a Kreg Jig, go ahead and drill all pocket holes set for 1 1/2″ stock and fasten with 2 1/2″ screws and glue.
Now we are going to build some sideways Ts. Six of them.
Now add the tops and bottoms as shown in diagram above. See what I mean about being able to get your drill in there to predrill holes and drive screws? Make sure you are working on a flat, level surface, and DEFINITELY check for square (or rectangle) in this case.
Now add the Ts to the ends.
And finally, the top and aprons.
For those of you without a Kreg Jig, you will need to use 3″ countersunk screws from the bottom of the apron to tie in the rectangles. The tops you should also use 3″ countersunk screws just to keep it all square and sturdy.
Now the legs.
By now, you are a pro, rock star builder, whippin’ this thing out! One thing to consider, especially if you are using pocket holes, is to mirror the two ends so your pocket holes are on the outsides for both arms.
Front apron should be an easy step.
Use 2 1/2″ screws and wood glue to attach cleats to aprons, flush to the bottoms.
You can either use a bunkie board, metal bed spring, or a box spring, or slats as shown above. Always refer to the recommendation of your mattress for slat spacings.
And if you expect a heavier load, this is how you would “beef up” the bed.
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.