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entertainment center woodworking plans

Added/Modified on October 7, 2016
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Shopping List:

4 – 1×8 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×12 @ 3 feet long (for doors)
1 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2 1/4” base moulding 6 feet long
2 – ¾” nosing 6 feet long
4 sets narrow profile hinges (smallest ones you can find)
6 knobs or handles
½ sheet ¼” plywood or beadboard for back
1 1/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
wood glue
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush

Tools:

measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
Kreg Jig™
drill
circular saw
nailer
sander
countersink drill bit

Cut List:

1 – 1×8 @ 48 ½”
2 – 1×8 @ 18 ¼”
1 – 1×8 @ 47”
2 – 1×8 @ 15 ¾”
3 – 1×8 @ 22 ½”
2 – 1×8 @ 28 ¼”
1 – 1×8 @ 24”
2 – 1×6 @ 24 ¼”
4 – 1×6 @ 11 ½”
2 – 1×6 @ 12 ¼”
2 – 1×2 @ 11 ½”
1 – 1×2 @ 22 ½”
2 – 1×12 @ 15 ½”
2 – 1×8 @ 22 ¼”
2 1/4” moulding cut to fit
¾” nosing cut to fit

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.

Step 1

First, put the console part together. I used 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. This part went together pretty fast, just following along the diagram. One thing to note, the console is designed for 1×8 and 1×12 door faces that measure 11 1/4″ and 7 1/4″ wide, with an 1/8″ gap all the way around. If your 1x8s and 1x12s differ in width, you may need to adjust the console.

Step 2

Then I just started adding the hutch part. You do not have to follow along an exact order, this just worked for me to go in this order.

Step 3

And then I added the side hutches, still using the 3/4″ PHs/1 1/4″ PH screws, keeping everything flush to back. Here’s where I started using the 1x6s instead of 1x8s to add varying depths to the media wall.

Step 4

And then some support. I just nailed and glued these babies on.

Step 5

The back is easy. It’s exactly a half sheet of 1/4″ (I used beadboard paneling) plywood and then just notch out the top with a circular saw or jig saw. Easy peasy! A big deal here is to glue and nail to all of your boards on the back for the most support.

Step 6

And then add the moulding. Big regret for me is I did not wrap my moulding around the sides. Would have looked so much better! I highly recommend you considering mitering the corners and wrapping moulding around sides.

Step 7

The doors are just 1×12 and 1x8s hinged on with narrow profile hinges (the cheap, tiny, basic hinges that sit in the gap between the door and the cabinet opening). I was short on 1x12s so I made a frame from 1x3s and glued and nailed beadboard to the back for my larger doors.

Step 8

When I was done, I felt like the center needed a little something more …

Step 9

So I added a few shelves to the insides. Love this mod!

Finishing Instructions

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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