farmhouse bedside table woodworking plans
1 – 1×12 @ 6 feet long
2 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long
4 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
1/4″ plywood scrap, at least 24″ x 8″ (minimum, ideally 26″ x 8 1/2″)
2 1/2″ Screws or Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4″ Finish nails or Screws
Wood Glue, wood filler and finishing supplies
countersink drill bit
2 – 1×12 @ 8 3/4″ (Sides)
2 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Trim – needs to be width of your 1x12s)
4 – 2×2 @ 26 1/4″ (Legs)
2 – 2×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Stretchers, same width as your 1x12s)
6 – 2×2 @ 23″ (Front/Back Trim)
1 – 1/4″ Plywood or paneling or other sheet goods @ 26″ x 8 1/2″ (back, optional)
3 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Top Supports)
3 – 1×6 @ 28″ (Top)
2 – 1×6 @ 22 3/4″ (Front and Back of Drawer)
2 – 1×6 @ 11 1/2″ (Width of 1×12 – Sides of Drawers)
1 – 1×12 @ 21 1/4″ (Bottom of drawer)
1 – 1×12 @ 26″ (Bottom Shelf)
2 – 1×2 @ 23″ (Bottom Shelf Trim)
Build the sides by screwing or nailing from the insides into the back sides of the 1×2 trim, as shown above. Remember that the 1x2s are on the outside, so hide your fasteners on the back side. Use glue. Make sure trim is flush on top and ends with the 1×12. You will need to build two of these.
Next add the legs to the project as shown above. Predrill holes and use glue and 2 1/2″ screws. Finish with the bottom stretcher. You will need to do this on both sides.
Join the two side pieces with the front and back trim as shown above. Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue.
This could even be a stiff cardboard or hardboard if that’s what you have on hand. Try asking at your hardware store for a scrap piece of plywood or a damaged sheet to save extra money. Tack on with either 1 1/4″ finish nails or screws and glue.
Attach the top supports as shown above with 2 1/2″ screws and glue.
The top needs to overhang the base by 1″ on all sides. If you have a pocket hole system, build your top, then screw the base to the top through the supports. Otherwise, screw the supports to the top, starting with the middle top board, and minimizing gaps between the boards as you screw the outer boards to the supports.
Build your drawer as shown above. Use screws and glue. The bottom is inset, with all sides screwed into the bottom. The front is merely false cuts made with a circular saw with the saw blade set at 1/8″.
What I would start with is screwing the drawer slides in place, flush with the bottom of the sides. Then fit the drawer in and unscrew the drawer slide and adjust until the gap around the top and sides is even and the drawer slides in and out nicely.
Attach the front trim to the legs as shown above, leaving an even gap on the underside of the drawer.
You can lay the bottom shelf on the side stretchers, or you can screw to the legs as shown above.
For a stained finish, be very careful to not let glue dry on any exposed seams or areas. Sand and stain, followed with wood filler that matches the stain, followed with a light sanding, a second coat of stain, and a clear top coat.