farmhouse table woodworking plans
4 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 4×4 @ 10 feet long
4 – 2×8 @ 6 feet long
1 – 2×8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
1 – 2×10 @ 6 feet long
3 inch screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
countersink drill bit
4 – 4×4 posts @ 29″ (legs)
2 – 2×4 @ 67″ (long aprons)
2 – 2×4 @ 27″ (short aprons)
1 – 2×4 @ 74″ (stretcher)
2 – 2×4 @ 34″ (stretcher supports)
4 – 2×8 @ 70.5″ (table top planks)
1 – 2×10@ 70.5″ (center table top plank — I had to use one 2×10 to get the right overall width)
2 – 2×8 ~38″ (breadboard ends — measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)
First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you’ll need a 12″ (maybe a 10″ will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4×4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You’ll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.
Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks – just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!
Notch out the stretcher support board first, then attach to the 4x4s. Remember the screws will show here, so drill in pattern. Use 3″ screws to attach.
Then add your top aprons with 1 1/2″ pocket holes and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Now attach the two ends together to create your table frame.
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.