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fire truck loft bed woodworking plans

Added/Modified on August 24, 2014
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Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

2 – sheets 3/4″ plywood or MDF
4 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
16 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long (does not include slats)
8 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2×2 @ 4 feet long (add two more for 2×2 cleats for slats)
1 – 1×10 @ 6 feet long
3″ bolts for bolting bed together

wood glue
wood filler
paint
paint brush

Tools:

measuring tape
square
pencil
hammer
safety glasses
hearing protection
Kreg Jig™
drill
circular saw
jigsaw
compound miter saw
nailer
sander
level
countersink drill bit

Cut List

FRONT WALL

1 – 3/4″ plywood 48″ x 80″
2 – 1×3 @ 64 1/2″
3 – 1×4 @ 80″
4 – 1×3 @ 3″
1 – 1×3 @ 75″
2 – 1×3 @ 36″
1 – 1×3 @ 29″
2 – 1×3 @ 21 1/2″
1 – 1×3 @ 11″
1 – 1×2 @ 40″
1 – 1×2 @ 6″
6 – 1×3 @ 19 1/16″ (both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel to each other)
1 – 24″ diameter round tabletop or scrap 3/4″ plywood for wheel

WINDSHIELD SIDE WALL

1 – 3/4″ plywood @ 48″ x 37 1/2″
2 – 1×3 @ 64 1/2″
3 – 1×4 @ 37 1/2″
2 – 1×3 @ 33 1/2″
3 – 1×3 @ 11″
1 – 1×6 @ 37 1/2″
1 – 1×2 @ 37 1/2″
1 – 1×3 @ 37 1/2″
5 – 1×2 @ 16″
4 – 1×3 @ 4 1/2″
4 – 1×4 @ 4 1/2″

LADDER SIDE WALL

1 – 3/4″ plywood @ 48″ x 37 1/2″
3 – 1×3 @ 64 1/2″
3 – 1×4 @ 21 3/4″
1 – 1×3 @ 37 1/2″
1 – 1×6 @ 37 1/2″
1 – 1×2 @ 20″
1 – 1×2 @ 4″
2 – 2×2 @ 48″
5 – 1×2 @ 15 3/4″

BACK OPEN WALL

2 – 1×3 @ 64 1/2″
2 – 1×4 @ 80″
1 – 1×6 @ 80″
1 – 1×3 @ 80″
4 – 1×3 @ 3″
2 – 1×3 @ 43 1/2″

MATTRESS SUPPORT SYSTEM

2 – 1×2 @ 75″ (use 2×2 here for additional support)
1×3 cleats @ 39″ wide OR bunkie board or other support system

BUCKET

2 – 1×10 @ 16″
2 – 1×4 @ 16″
4 – 2×2 @ 14 1/4″
1 – 1×4 @ 25″
1 – 1×10 @ 25″
1 – 3/4″ plywood @ 23 1/2″ x 16″

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.

Step 1

Start by cutting out the front panel carefully as shown here. If you want, you can paint the plywood first – thus the white square around the window.

Step 2

Next add the legs to the outside. You can nail from the back side to hide nail holes. Keep outside and bottom edges flush.

Step 3

Now add the railings to the top. If you have a Kreg Jig, drill 3/4″ pocket holes facing downward along the bottom edge of the railings to attach to plywood. If you don’t have a pocket hole jig, no worries, in the next bit, we’ll reinforce the plywood to bottom railing joint.

Step 4

Fill in the legs with spacers. I’d cut these to width for the perfect fit.

Step 5

And add the front trim. If you didn’t use pocket holes to join the plywood to the bottom railing, here you can overlap to reinforce the joint.

Step 6

Now simply trim out windows and doors. If you have a pocket hole jig, you can build the frames separate, and then attach as a single piece.

Step 7

This trim is optional, but I added it for the ladder side and also to give you a clean spot to start and stop painting. What about painting it silver?

Step 8

These pieces are decorative as well, but do help to hold the front railings together. And they look like a ladder!

Step 9

We used a 24″ round from the home improvement store and cut off the bottom six inches to create the wheel. You can also use scrap plywood to cut out the wheel.

Step 10

Now we are on the windshield side.

Cut out the windshield as shown here. NOTE for those of you without a pocket hole jig – you may wish to leave a 2 1/2″ strip of plywood down the center for the center of the windsheild trim (see step 12).

Step 11

Now add the legs and top railings.

From the outside, plywood is inset 3/4″ on legs. Just use a scrap 1x board as a spacer to guide you.

Step 12

Build your windshield and then attach as shown above.

Step 13

And now trim out the front. Keep the top 1×3 trim level with the 1×3 trim added on the front side to cover the plywood to bottom railing joint.

Step 14

Time to use up some of those scraps!

Step 15

Now we are on the ladder side. Cut out the plywood and window and attach legs, 3/4″ inset from outside side.

Step 16

Make sure the ladder support is square all the way up to the side legs.

Step 17

Add trim and railings.

NOTE: you can also fill in railing spaces with 1×3 scraps.

Step 18

Build ladder as shown and attach to trim with screws or bolts.

Step 19

Now we have moved to the back wall. Attach railings and base trim to the legs. Take a diagonal and make sure your back wall is square.

For heavier loads, consider adding an additional leg down the center.

Step 20

Now the bed is ready for construction. You can do this in the room … after you have painted. I recommend bolting legs together for the easiest assembly/disassembly.

Step 21

Attach cleats (use 2x2s with 2″ screws and glue for more “meat” to screw the slats down) evenly and then your mattress support system.

Step 22:

By this time, building the bucket is going to be a no brainer!

Finishing Instructions

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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Rating: 8.8/10 (8 votes cast)
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Rating: -1 (from 1 vote)
fire truck loft bed woodworking plans, 8.8 out of 10 based on 8 ratings

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