kitchen island woodworking plans
24″ wide, 48″ long, 32 3/4″ tall
1 – 2’x4′ project panel
2 – 2 x 2 x 8′ boards
2 – 1 x 4 x 8′ boards
7 – 1 x 2 x 8′ boards
1 1/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
120 grit sandpaper
compound miter saw
countersink drill bit
Project board for top does not need to be cut.
4 – 2 x 2 @ 32″ (legs)
2 – 1 x 4 @ 19″ (end aprons)
2 – 1 x 4 @ 43″ (side aprons)
2 – 1 x 2 @ 19″ (bottom end shelf supports)
2 – 1 x 2 @ 43″ (bottom side shelf supports)
22 – 1 x 2 @ 21.5″ (bottom shelf slats)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.
If using a Kreg Jig™, pre-drill your holes (2 on each end of the back side of the 1×4, 1 on each end of the back of the 1×2, 1 in the top interior of the 2×2) Build your two ends by attaching the legs to your aprons. You can adjust the height of the bottom shelf to your own specifications. I chose 7″ from the bottom to line up the bottom of my 1×2 apron.
If using the Kreg Jig™, pre-drill your holes in the side aprons (two on each end of the interior side) Connect your end pieces with the two side aprons.
Attach your top. If using the Kreg, lay the the project panel topside-down on the ground, then flip your frame-base upside down onto it, centering it onto the panel (about 1.5″ in on all sides). Secure with pocket-hole screws. If using the traditional method, place the panel on top of your frame, centering it (about 1.5″ in from each end). Countersink your screws into the 2×2 legs. Use glue on the top of the frame for added security. If you’d like to secure it even more, measure where your aprons are located and hammer in a few finishing nails to keep it in place while the glue dries.
Attach the lower side shelf supports so they are flush with the end shelf supports. Mine are 7″ up from the bottom.
Using glue and finishing nails, attach your shelf slats to the supports. Mine are roughly spaced 1/2″ apart.
Fill holes, sand and finish as desired. I attached knobs on the ends to hold potholders, and you can easily replace that with hooks or a towel bar.
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.