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loft bed woodworking plans

Added/Modified on December 21, 2016
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Shopping List:

14 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
4 – 2×6 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
2 ½” PH screws

Tools:

measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
Kreg Jig™
drill
circular saw
sander
countersink drill bit

Cut List:

4 – 2×4 @ 65 ½”
2 – 2×6 @ 37 ½”
5 – 2×4 @ 37 ½”
4 – 2×4 @ 75”
2 – 2×6 @ 75”
2 – 2×2 @ 75”
2 – 2×4 @ 30 ½”
2 – 2×4 @ 37 ½”
1 – 2×4 @ 41 ½”
2 – 2×4 @ 20 ½”
12 – 2×4 @ 22”
2 – 2×6 @ 43” (both ends cut 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel) – to be trimmed down in later steps
6 – 1×2 @ 7 ¾” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square
6 – 2×4 @ 20 ½”

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.

Step 1

Build the ladder end as shown in diagram with 1 1/2″ PHs and 2 1/2″ PH screws. Use glue to fasten – these joints are permanent.

If you are building this loft bed without the stair platform, add 2x4s all the way down to make a “ladder” for the kids to climb up.

Step 2

Build front end of loft bed same as ladder end.

Step 3

Now here’s where we skip the glue. To make this loft bed easy to disassemble, I did not use glue here. The inside width for the mattress area should be 39″, insetting the side rails 1 1/4″ from outsides. I did this so your PH screws have lots of board to grab into.

This bed has NOT been weight tested or guaranteed. If you feel you need extra support – add metal brackets under the 2x6s.

An alternative method is to attach metal bed brackets directly to the ends if you have those.

Notice the cleat is added in this step to. I used 2 1/2″ screws and glue to attach, screws every 6-8″ all the way down.

This bed is designed to work with a bunkie board, but we just used 2x6s cut to length as the bed slats.

Step 4

Now we’ll start building the stair platform for the loft bed with stairs.

Step 5

Build the floor framing section and attach to the floor legs. I recommend 1 1/2″ PHs and 2 1/2″ PH screws and glue here.

Step 6

And then the decking is placed on top of the stair platform.

Step 7

The stairs are easy to build – just 45 degree angles! We went ahead and drilled 1 1/2″ PHs along top edge of the stairs to connect the stairs to the bed later on.

Step 8

Then we added the stair treads. We also drilled 1 1/2″ PHs along ends of the stair treads and attached with 2 1/2″ PH screws just for extra strength. Everything gets glued.

Step 9

The bed was finished outside and then assembled in the room.

TIP: We haven’t found our bed needs it, but for extra support, you could add another 2×4 @ 75″ (at $2 a 2×4, cheap insurance) to the base of the bed to further support the bottoms.

Finishing Instructions

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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loft bed woodworking plans, 5.8 out of 10 based on 10 ratings

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