media console woodworking plans
Dimensions are shown above. This media unit is designed to match the side bases here. Also note that the drawers require a 1×8 that measures 7 1/4″ wide. If yours don’t you will need to adjust accordingly or rip your 1x8s to width. Also, this plans uses 1x12s that are 11 1/2″ wide, but there will be no issue with a wider/narrower 1×12 – it will only affect a few cuts, and I’ll make note of those cuts. I choose to use a 11 1/2″ width for 1x12s because many of us make our own 1x12s by ripping (or having the Home Depot or Lowes rip for us) plywood into 11 1/2″ widths (conserves the most plywood).
Materials and Tools
3 – 1×12 @ 8 feet long
5 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×8 @ 12 feet long
1/4″ plywood (for door backs and optionally the back of the media center)
2 1/2″ screws or pocket hole screws
finish nails (if you don’t use pocket hole screws)
Finishing Supplies including paint and primer or stain
4 – knobs or handles
1 1/4 inch screws
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 1/2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
120 grit sandpaper
2 – 1×12 @ 19 1/2″ (Sides)
4 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (cut to the width of your 1×12 – side trim)
1 – 1×12 @ 57 1/2″ (Top)
2 – 1×12 @ 18 3/4″ (Center Partitions)
1 – 1×12 @ 54 1/2″ (Bottom of Box)
4 – 2×2 @ 23 1/4″ (Legs)
4 – 2×2 @ 54 1/2″ (Front/Back Trim)
1 – 1×2 @ 57 1/2″ (Top Trim, Back)
1 – 1×3 @ 57 1/2″ (Top Trim, Front)
4 – 2×2 @ 16 1/2″ (Drawer/Door Trim)
4 – 1×8 @ 20 1/4″ (Drawer Front/Back)
4 – 1×8 @ 11 1/2″ (Drawer Sides – cut to the width of your 1x12s)
2 – 1×12 @ 18 3/4″ (Drawer Bottom)
4 – 1×3 @ 15 3/8″ (Door Top/Bottom)
1 – 2×2 @ 20 1/2″ (Drawer Trim)
2 – 2×2 @ 13″ (Drawer Guides – 1×12 width + 1 1/2″)
2 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Cut to width of your 1×12 – bottom drawer guides)
6 – 1×2 @ 11 3/8″ (Door Sides/Trim)
1/4″ plywood @ 15 3/8″ x 16 1/4″ (Door Backs)
Attach the sides to the side trim as shown in the diagram. You will need to do two of these. I fastened mine from the inside to hide screw holes.
Build the box as shown above. I used pocket hole screws (1 1/4″ long), but you could use glue and coutnersunk screws or even nails (lots of glue) – just make sure your fasteners are 2″ long.
Attach the legs to the box, flush to the inside of the box and the outside of the side trim. Use 2 1/2″ finish nails or screws and glue or pocket hole screws from the inside.
This should be an easy step, but will strengthen up your piece considerably. Fasten same as legs. Also fasten legs to trim.
Same as previous step, just make sure that the drawer housing is flush on the insides.
Top Front and Back
Finish off the top front and back as shown above. If you have a pocket hole system, you will want to have holes predrilled in the top 1×12 to attach the trim. otherwise, wood glue and screws will work (it’s fully supported by the 2x2s).
Build your drawer as shown above. Use either pocket hole screws or 2″ screws and glue. You need two drawers.
I like to adjust my drawer guides to a perfect fitting drawer. Begin by placing the bottom drawer guides in place. You may need to shim this one up 1/8″ so that the drawer face has an 1/8″ gap under it. Glue and use 1 1/4″ fasteners to keep in place (hold off on the glue until you are happy with the placement of both drawers). Then add the top drawer guides (not the trim yet) until you have approximately a 1/8″ gap to the top of the top drawer and the drawer is sliding smoothly. When you are happy with the top drawer, fit the center trim in place and adjust your drawers as necessary. The ultimate goal is an even gap around both drawers and smooth sliding drawers. TIP: Rub bottom edges of drawers and drawer guides with a cheapo candle to have super smooth sliding drawers.
See image above
When you cut your boards, make sure you measure the exact opening of your door, and leave 1/8 gap for a tight fit, 1/4″ (total gap, so that’s 1/8″ all the way around) for a roomier door. If you have a pocket hole system, build the door frame as shown above. You can use a countersink bit or wood dowels to build the door frame too. Otherwise, glue and nail to the back plywood. Keep in mind the allowance need for your hinges. Depending on the type of hinge that you are using, you may need to cut the plywood out around the hinge.