octagon picnic table woodworking plans
Materials and Tools
10 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
15 – 2×6 @ 8 feet long
2 1/2 inch screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
120 grit sandpaper
compound miter saw
countersink drill bit
1 – 2×4 @ 62″ (Longest Point – Both ends tapered back at 30 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other)
2 – 2×4 @ 30 1/2″ (Longest Point – One end at 30 degrees off square)
4 – 2×4 @ 29 15/16″ (Longest Point – One end at 30 degrees off square, other end at a point, 45 degrees off square)
8 – 2×6 @ 4 9/16″ (Longest Point – Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
8 – 2×6 @ 9 1/2″ (Longest Point – Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
8 – 2×6 @ 14 7/16″ (Longest Point – Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
8 – 2×6 @ 19 5/16″ (Longest Point – Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
8 – 2×6 @ 24 1/4″ (Longest Point – Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
8 – 2×6 @ 32 15/16″ (Both ends at 30 degrees off square, parallel to each other)
1 – 2×4 @ 95″ (Longest Point – Both ends tapered in at 30 degrees off square)
2 – 2×4 @ 46 3/4″ (Longest Point – One end at 30 degrees off square)
4 – 2×4 @ 46 7/16″ (Longest Point – One end at 30 degrees off square, other end at a point, 45 degrees off square)
8 – 2×6 @ 31 13/16″ (Longest Point – Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
8 – 2×6 @ 36 3/4″ (Both ends at 30 degrees off square, parallel to each other)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.
I wanted to add a diagram so that you can take measurements of the leg room.
It starts with a big X. Be sure you are working on a very flat, level surface. Use pocket hole screws and glue to joint in the center as shown above. You could also use metal straps or plates but you can only place the metal plates on the bottom side.
You will then need to carefully cut the remaining supports as shown above (click for a larger view) and add, with 22 1/2 degree angles between the “spokes”. Pocket holes or metal brackets.
Layout all of the tabletop boards first and adjust as necessary. The tabletop boards should meet in the center of the “spokes”. Screw down, two screws per board, predrilled.
Flip the tabletop over and measure in on all the legs 7″. Mark and begin attaching legs. You will know your legs are at the right angle by placing a level on top of the legs. When the level reads level, you are at the correct angle, and you can screw the legs to the tabletop “spokes”.
Mark all of your legs as shown above. Start by adding the longest remaining support as shown above. TIP: For added strength, rotate the full length support to 90 degrees from the full length tabletop support.
Then add the two supports cut straight on one end as shown above.
As you did the tabletop, add the remaining lower supports.
Flip the table back over and screw down the seat boards as shown above. This time, start to the outside and work your way inward.
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.