rustic end table woodworking plans
2 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×12 @ 3 feet long
2 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2×6 @ 8 feet long
corner bracket hardware
2 1/2″ and 1 1/4″ PH screws
compound miter saw
countersink drill bit
8 – 2X4 @ 22 1/2″
4 – 2X2 @ 16″
2 – 1X12 @ 16″
2 – 2X2 @ 26 1/2″ (LONG POINT TO SHORT POINT, ENDS ARE PARALLEL, 50 DEGREES OFF SQUARE)
4 – 2×2 @ 13 1/4″ (Longest edge, one end cut at 50 degrees off square, other end cut at 10 degrees off square, see diagram)
5 – 2×6 @ 27″
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.
Start by building two ends as depicted in diagrams. You can also attach with countersunk 2 1/2″ screws and glue.
NOTE: Yellow board width should be 22 1/2″
Next attach the 2×2 sides.
And then build your bottom shelf and attach to bottom of console.
Now it’s time to fit your cross braces. A standard miter saw should cut a 50 degree angle off square. If not, you will need to mark it with a square (remember 50 degrees is off square, so that means the angle off the board edge would be 40 degrees. Another trick is to just hold the board in place, mark the angles, and cut :) These aren’t support boards or anything like that, so some glue and a few nails or countersunk screws from top/bottom will do the trick!
And then add the smaller pieces. The easiest way to join at the center is with 1 1/2″ PH and 2 1/2″ PH screws hidden out of sight.
Next build your top … and attach in place with countersunk 2 1/2″ screws. If you have the PH screws on hand, I just use a few of those!
And then add the decorative hardware!
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.