tilt out trash cabinet woodworking plans
Dimensions shown above. Fits trash can less than 16″ wide x 22″ high x 12″ deep overall.
2 – 1×12 @ 6 feet long
1 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
Narrow Hinges (the cheapo kind with flat headed screws)
Knob or Pull
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
120 grit sandpaper
countersink drill bit
2 – 1×12 @ 29 1/4″
1 – 1×12 @ 19″
1 – 1×12 @ 17 1/2″
2 – 1×3 @ 19″
3 – 1×2 @ 19″
2 – 1×2 @ 26″ (Back)
2 – 1×2 @ 25 1/4″ (Front)
Door Slab overall 1/4″ less than opening
1 – 1×12 @ 12″ cut in half diagonally
1 – 1×12 the width of the door (approximately 15 3/4″)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.
Use either a Kreg Jig or 2″ screws or finish nails to build your box as shown above. The bottom shelf is 2 1/2″ from the bottom, at the top. So leave 1 3/4″ gap underneath the bottom shelf. Check for square.
Once your box is done, choose the less attractive side and attach trim as shown above. I used 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue.
Now the sides on the back. You can also choose to cover the back in 1/4″ plywood, but I personally wanted an easy means of both changing trash bags and cleaning the cabinet out. So my trash bin is actually open on the back.
Now the front. I like to cut footers out in place because you don’t have to worry about clamping it down or anything like that. Nail down and then mark as shown in the diagram and cut out with a jigsaw.
Now the back side trim.
And the front. Notice that the top has a 3/4″ gap. This is good.
Finally the front edge. Nail and glue in place. This completes the cabinet construction.
You should always build your doors to fit your openings – especially for inset doors. For inset doors, I like to leave an 1/8″ gap around all sides of the door, so that means you need to make the door overall 1/4″ less wide and 1/4″ less tall than the opening.
You can use other methods to build the door – a full slab for a modern look or beadboard on a 1×3 frame for a cottage look.
Build the base as shown above, securing to the door.
And then just hinge the door to the cabinet. For our tilt out trash cabinet/recycle center, we didn’t even have to worry about a magnetic catch – the weight of the tilt out base keeps everything closed nicely.
However, you may need to install either hardware or a chain to keep the tilt out door from opening all the way and bruising your toes :)
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.